The official blog of the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival

Saturday, February 13, 2010
The Britisher, the anchor, the writer, the Italian and the editor

So on Thursday 11th evening, I got on the other side of the fence, err, the other side of the mike. Metaphorically of course. I was asked to moderate a “Fresh off the Shelf” discussion among a truly eclectic cast of characters: a Britisher, a TV anchor, a freelance writer, an Italian and a newspaper editor.

That’s, respectively: Melvin Burgess, author of some acclaimed “young adult” novels, Nicholas Dane being his most recent one; Amrita Tripathi, author of the soon-to-be-out novel Broken News; Annie Zaidi, blogger and once Frontline reporter, author of one of the essays in the book India Shining, India Changing; Gioia Guerzoni, editor and translator of the aforesaid India Shining, India Changing into its original Italian edition; and Soumya Bhattacharya, editor at the Hindustan Times and author of the novel If I Could Tell You.

I ran into Soumya a few minutes before we started, and after greeting each other he asked me how my book was doing. I mentioned that it had had a couple of positive reviews, a couple of critical reviews. He promptly warmed the cockles of my heart by saying, in a vehement whisper, four words and four words only: “F**k the reviews!”

(That “**” stands for “uc”). (And sorry, I meant three words and three words only. I’m numerically challenged).

(Click here to read the whole post)

Thursday, February 11, 2010
Somebody like you, comes into my life

Less than 24 hours before it was to happen, I was volunteered into “being in conversation with” (what a strange expression that is, and yet with what felicity I use it) the singer/songwriter Biddu (the name behind such song standards as “Kung Fu Fighting” and “Aap Jaisa Koi”). The guilty party knows who s/he is, and will remain nameless except to say that s/he shares her/his first name with an actor who played Lawrence of Arabia, and his/her last name with most of the moniker of a Harry Potter school house. (None of Slitheryn, Ravenclaw and Hufflepuff).

But if I sound ungrateful, I am not so at all. Really. Thinking about it for a few minutes after the late night phone call, I started getting to like the idea. And then I got a copy of Biddu’s book, “Made in India”, and read over half of it in the hours leading up to the event. It is a charming book, easy to read and like. A TimeOut Mumbai essay described Biddu — admiringly, I think — as having a “penchant for silly similes”, and it’s true, and I’m admiring too. He tosses them out left and right, with the ease of a guest flinging rice at a church wedding (there, I’m doing it too). And they work, because they leave you with a smile and a nod of the head. (Click here to read the whole post)

Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Vadouvan and Taco Bell

Confession: I am not a foodie. I have never been interested in trying out new restaurants, nor in making an effort to check out the food typical of places I’ve travelled to. So for me, it was an hour of wonder, listening to a panel discussion on food writing. I will freely also confess, what drew me was that two of the panelists (Nilanjana Roy and Shoba Narayan) have been on panels over the last few weeks discussing my recent book, Roadrunner, with me. (Shoba in Bangalore, Nilanjana in Delhi). And in November, this session’s moderator, Vikram Doctor, moderated me in another discussion. He’s invariably knowledgeable and engaging, which only made this panel more appealing still.

(Click here to read the whole post)

Sunday, February 15, 2009
Queasiness

Unfortunately I caught only the tail end of the conversation with Ganesh Devy in the David Sassoon Library garden. Somebody asked him about Naxalism. Here’s a gist of what he said.

It’s like P Sainath’s book Everybody Loves a Good Drought. It suits governments to declare areas drought-affected. In the same way, the Government says 128 districts are “Naxalite-infested.” We have about 600 districts in this country, and I’ve been to about 350. I’ve not seen so many that are affected. It helps the government to say there is this danger. It conceals the failures of development. Nobody listens to these people, so in an absurd way they are hitting back using their bodies. The media does not want to look at the fine print in these stories.

This fed well into the next session at the Garden, which was about writing on conflict. Sudeep Chakravarti, author of Red Sun, was the moderator, and said something similar to Devy. The Government says 15 of our 28 states are “Maoist-infested” — a term he detests — and if you add J&K and Nagaland and Arunachal and Manipur and a few others that are wracked by violence, you have 21. 21 of our 28 states that are going through social conflict. What is conflict if it is not endemic to India?

Sonia Jabbar read out three extracts from her forthcoming nonfiction book. One small part stuck in my mind, and I shall try to paraphrase. It was about a young man abducted in Kashmir. His sister met the abductors, and pleaded for her brothers life, while stroking one of their AK47s. It was an unmistakable sexual gesture, and it made the others present queasy: this young girl, offering the unthinkable for her brother’s life. It didn’t matter, because they killed him anyway.

Sudeep played two short audio clips, intercepts of police transmissions in Chhatisgarh. The first is some quick intructions from a senior officer to his men. If they find journalists who are going to cover the Naxalites, said this officer and all of us in the Garden heard him, “unko seedha marwa dena.”

The second is about reaching out to villagers in these areas. Reach out once, reach out twice … if after the third time the cops think the villagers are still supporting Naxals, tell them “tumhara gaon jala denge.”

The next session, I am to moderate. Right about now, I feel distinctly queasy.

Sunday, February 15, 2009
Who hates?

Third installment of missives to Pakistan, from the Postcards to Pakistan booth:

* I Hate Pakistan — Hrithika, age 7 years.
* Pakistan ko udha dalo. (in Devnagari). Mi Mumbaikar (in English).
* Dear Pakistan, Son can’t Take the Place of Father!!
* Dear Pakistan (May Allah Give U Brains). Love Peace Life. PLZ stop training terrorists. You loosers GROW UP!! Tripta and Amrita.
* We want a peace But After a WAR against the Terrorists/Pakistan. Bloody Fuckers/Mother Fuckers. ShivSagar.
* Don’t Bye Peace from Pakistan. Attack Terrorist camps for Peace. Virendra Padte.
* Fighting is better if fought directly on war zone not kilin insocent!!!
* I Hate Pakistan. Vansh, 6 yrs.
* What students study in Pakistan?

1) BE — Bomb Engineering.
2) MBBS — Member of Bomb Blasting Society.
3) IIT — Islamic Institute of Terrorism.
5) M Tech — Masters in Terror Technology.
6) LLB — Learning License of Bomb Blasting.

Vinod Tambe. [No #4].
* Pakistanvar halla kara! (Devnagari)
* I request all Pakistani - Please take a holi-dip in Varanasi. Osama Bin Laden.
* First control Indian Talibanism by Ram Sena or any other Sena, then tell Pakistan to behave.
* I hate Pakasthan. Pakasthan the Terror. Tushita K Nagula, Age 11.
* Dear brother Pakistan, Please stop fighting with me now or I’ll tell mom. She’s gonna punish you… Yours loving bro, India.
* Let’s hope and pray they drop the BOMB. They drop it on FU**@#$in’ PAKISTAN!
* Phudcha Mukhyamantri Raj Thackeray Hava!!! Prathmesh Pandit (in Devanagari)
* I love India But I hate Pakistan.
* (Immediately next to the previous): Stop hating us we our one you yours that is unity. Raahil.
* Fuck to the Pakistan By Order.
* Next time there won’t be a Pakistan left.
* Pakistan I Hate You. Me Too. Jugal and Amey.

People will ask, why do Pakistanis hate India so much? We don’t hate them like they hate us!

This booth., it says some different things. Makes you wonder.

Sunday, February 15, 2009
Spelling it out

Early-ish Saturday morning, I stand at one end of Rampart Row and I can see clear down to the other end; my estimate is that there are 25 people between me and there. At no other moment during my visits here could I have said this.

I am struck by an inexplicable urge to find out what my future holds for me, apart from what I do know about it: that in an hour I will pick up my son from a workshop. So I saunter down to the other end, where I know the fortune tellers sit. On the way I run into — I mean physically run into — someone whom I heard described, two nights ago, as “an institution on the Bombay cultural scene” or words to that effect. Considering that I fell backwards as if struck by a battering ram, I’d agree with “institution”. Like running into the Gateway of India.

Where the fortune tellers sit, there’s nobody sitting. But like Charu, I’m struck by their offer to help me with FOREIN TUOU and EDUEOTION, and their injunction to “Look-for hands live”. I look quizzically at my hands as I saunter on.

At the Postcards to Pakistan booth — a further installment of the missives there will appear here soon — I’m standing next to several pre-teen boys chaperoned by a gent in a smart grey-blue shirt printed with fleur-de-lises, wearing sharp brown leather shoes with a gold emblem of sorts. We’re all reading the missives, and suddenly he leads them, with plenty of giggles, in finding words for each letter in “Pakistan”. This was their effort:

“P” — Pagal.
“A” — Atrocious.
“K” — Kutta.
“I” — Idiot.
“S” — Stupid.
“T” — Terrorist.
“A” — Arrogant.
“N” — Nikamma.

By the end they are so convulsed with laughter that I am worried that in their mirth, a couple of the kids will fall on the floor and roll around.

What would a forein tuou, to Pakistan, do for the edueotion of these kids?

Thursday, February 12, 2009
Lost in it

Wednesday evening at KGAF: With about half an hour free before we had to meet someone, we braved the nonstop MG Road traffic and crossed to the David Sassoon Library garden. (Why do people in cars refuse to let pedestrians cross?)

Trees with exposed roots, the famous little cats, the smattering of eager listeners: there’s something about that little pocket garden. As we sat down, a frail older lady stepped hesitantly in the dark over the roots right in front of me. Inevitably, she stumbled. I reached out and grabbed her arm, whereupon she shot me a murderous look. I quake at the memory.

A Gujarati poetry session was near its end. Reading his poem at the mike was Dileep Jhaveri. I’m not much of a poetry fan, and I don’t know Gujarati, but I caught enough of his words to get some sense of what it was about. The poem spoke about finding a sword used by the poet’s great-grandfather, drawing some kind of a parallel to a pen … I was intrigued enough that I decided to ask him afterward if he had a translation. But when he finished, to my delight Jhaveri said he would now read out the same poem in English. And it was indeed about a sword and a pen, musing about what his great-grandson would think if he found the poet’s pen some day…

I realize I’m successfully murdering the poem with my attempted paraphrase, so I will cease and desist right here. I hope to have the actual translation soon, and if I do, I will post it here.

In the few minutes before the next event kicked off, Syed Ansari climbed on stage and rattled off three quick Urdu couplets. Once bitten … I’m reluctant to paraphrase some very elegant lines, so I will say only that the third couplet touched a chord. He introduced it saying it was about progress and development, and it spoke of how we build so many bridges that seem only to take us to where we came from.

I can think of many bridges like that. Real ones, metaphorical ones.

(Click here to read the whole post)

Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Anyway a crow

Forgive me for indulging myself here … but last month’s FlyLite magazine (JetLite’s inflight publication) carried an article I wrote about the KGAF. I thought it might interest some of you. Here you are. (Some of this material has appeared before, in slightly different forms, in this space).

***

Why go to the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival, you ask? I’m sure everyone has their own special reasons. Mine include crows. My favourite birds, and in 2006 they were a prominent part of the Festival. Not just because they were in the trees above, but because there was an entire art exhibit about these chummy black creatures.

I mean, there were photographs, paintings, poems. And one painting of a splendid specimen had these enigmatic words on a sheet of paper appended below:

Crow always sit on wire, even in Himalayas. This time he sat on Banyan which one is sturdy and strong. Crow wants stableness, not ZULA.

Crow found place for meditation in cool atmosphere arch of Temple, which gives him stableness and strong foundation. He is not interested in Zula.

Crow is the only bird who cleans city by eating all types of waste food. After his strong efforts he wants STABLENESS, STRONGNESS and MEDITATION. Not flicker mind & ZULA.”

(Click here to read the whole post)

Wednesday, February 11, 2009
The sari, the soap and the cards

The audience on the steps of the amphitheatre, they’re contemplative, expectant, jolly, seemingly stuck in a state of suspended animation. In the front row is a demure young woman in a sari worn Gujarati style, pallu over the right shoulder and also on her head.

What is she, and the others on these steps, waiting for?

On stage is another woman, maybe not so young. She’s in a short black dress, crown on her head and black transparent stockings on her legs. The dress is flouncy, cut high to show plenty of thigh. She’s about to put on a show, and they’re waiting for her? Possible.

The woman in the sari, she stares, open-mouthed. I walk about, trying hard to find a spot from where I can get them both in the same photo frame. It would make a nice shot. But it’s impossible. No way to capture the sari, the dress, the two women and that open mouth all in one shot, no matter where I roam.

Then I remember that I haven’t brought my camera anyway.

***

A large banner on the side of Rampart Row advertises “Natural Bath and Body Products (Indulge Yourself).” Not that the display particularly matches that legend, because it’s a photograph of a slice of chocolate cake, or is it my childhood favourite, Royal Halwa? Either way, I do want to indulge myself. Now.

But actually it’s neither cake nor halwa. It’s Nyassa chocolate soap.

I’ve spent much of the rest of the day trying to understand the very idea of chocolate soap. I’d be grateful for any help.

But it’s probably while looking at this display that I realize once again what I like most about KGAF. Not events, not workshops, not panel discussions, not the food. No: it’s just strolling about, people-watching, soaking in the sights and sounds, that sort of thing.

Though no, I still don’t understand choc soap.

***

Second instalment of entries from the “Postcards to Pakistan” display (no honk yet), offered without comment:

  • COLD BLOODED FREAKS!!
  • Dudh Mango Khir Denge. Kashmir Mangoge Chir Dege. (Not in Devnagri).
  • We hate you Pakistan. Never Dare 2 do this again. U SUCK.
  • Hey Pakistan You are totally mad by fighting with India. India is two centuries old. Ankita 12 years old.
  • Do anybody think Saving Kasab’s life is Right think.
  • Go Bomb Yourself.
  • Live and Let people live. Bloddy Fools stop terror. Give peace. Your enemies. Jessica Yrs=10.
  • I love my country. If you too love yours then sto.
  • Tuesday, February 10, 2009
    I feel guilty

    The “official car” of the Kala Ghoda Festival is a yellow and black — yes, the Bombay taxi colours — Renault Logan convertible. It has surprisingly scruffy seats, dark grey with yellow piping, and a plastic Bisleri water bottle tucked into the passenger side door pocket. I’ve seen it motorvating up and down Rampart Row several times in my time at the Fest so far; today it is parked under a tree and it attracts plenty of attention. That’s how I can state with confidence that a not-insignificant fraction of the city’s cellphone cameras have the Logan captured on their little CCDs.

    (No, I don’t know if the Bisleri bottle is standard equipment or an overpriced option).

    Though I will admit, today those cameras may have also, or actually, been aimed elsewhere. Specifically, at the structure to the left of where the Logan was parked. That’s a sculpture called “Bhagwan aaya cycle se“. What it is, is a large Ganesh made entirely of bicycle parts. Wheels, gears, bells, and many hanging chains, waving gently in the breeze.

    The idol sports several yellow flowers left by devotees, and more yellow and red petals strewn on a sheet laid out in front. The way the whole tableau is, you might almost think the Logan is part of the Ganesh installation. That it is actually his vehicle, that he has left the bottle in there as a joke on the Renault people. Sort of fits with the playfulness I’ve always liked about Ganesh.

    ***

    At the other end of the festival from the official car is a huge upside down umbrella. I do mean huge: held right side up, it would provide shelter to a pin code or two, no problem.

    Then again, it won’t. For it has little square windows cut in the canopy, through which I can see the traffic on MG Road dawdling past, and those windows make it unusable in rainy weather. Not good for an umbrella. But good for an art installation.

    It’s called “The Sky and the sky and …”.

    Not enigmatic enough for you? Then please go read the paragraph printed below the title, or read it here:

    “There is a boundary between Inner Sky and Outer Sky. Habitually the movements, transactions and transactions, are hindered by it. But there are some unknown windows enabling these movements.”

    Now that you know, please tell me what it means.

    Another exhibit here is called “I am on a diet”. It consists of three (3) seriously distorted cycles, copper plated, and a table somewhere in the middle of them. The sign says:

    “The dining cycle form depicts seats of cycle and its parts converted into a dining table … This automatically deszztresses people who feel guilty of EATING.”

    I look on guiltily, unable to finish my Gelato Italiano scoop, flavour “Kiet Kat”.

    Sunday, February 8, 2009
    Baywatch and the Billys

    I’m standing outside one of the KGAF bookstores, idly browsing through random coffee-table books including several as tall as my daughter with spectacular photographs. Rs 1271 for those, which is about Rs 1270 more than I’m carrying, so I resist the urge successfully.

    But then the wife who forms a major part of the couple to my right giggles and tells her husband: “Supercars, masterpieces of design and engineering!” This strikes me as an odd thing to say to your husband on a random Sunday afternoon, until I catch sight of a book under my nose with that very title. Has a very sporty looking grey Mercedes on the cover.

    He picks up the book, flips through it and puts it back, saying “Na, na!”

    Then she reaches over and, with a huge grin, hands him a book on the cover of which a muscular lifeguard carries an apparently unconscious woman in a sleek swimsuit cut impossibly high on the thigh. “Baywatch!” she says (the wife, not the woman in the swimsuit), because that’s the title of the book.

    He doesn’t even flip through it. He says “Na, na!” and puts it back.

    The man’s turned down a book on flashy cars and a book likely filled with women in swimsuits? What am I, standing next to the Mr Geek Universe titleholder himself? Maybe he invested his hard-earned rupees in the book that lies between those other two, by name “The Complete Office Handbook”?

    But then to my left, a young woman drags a reluctant young man in bermudas and a baseball cap to the book display. Across her chest, in glitter, is “bebe”. Across his chest, in white, is the edifying message “I don’t mind coming to work, it’s the 8 hour wait to go home that’s a bitch”. She reaches out and hands him a three-book set wrapped in plastic. It has the fascinating title “Discover Creative Solutions to Everyday Challenges.” She mutters something at him about how he should buy it and read it.

    He looks at it and nearly flings it back on the pile. “No, no”, he says.

    What is this, Get Hubby To Buy Useless Books Day at KGAF ‘09?

    ***

    To much nodding and bopping in the audience, a very noisy band plays rock. “Ru-Ba-Ru” is one of the songs, and the singer manages to lean over a partition and stick the mike into a passing lady’s face, whereupon she croons into it but we don’t hear her voice and he shrugs. Next they play one of their own compositions, called “Bas Karo“. I bump into a friend in the crowd as they are playing, and he yells in my ear “Really awful band, no?”

    I wouldn’t have said that, but they are indeed noisy. Next on stage is a band called The Other People. Now I heard these other guys a couple of years ago somewhere, and then they played one of my favourites, “Mony Mony”. At the end, the singer announced that this was a Billy Idol song. This is the kind of factoid that makes music-obsessed old geezers such as myself splutter through our dentures, because “Mony Mony” was originally composed and sung by Tommy James and the Shondells in the late 1960s, and covered by Idol in the ’80s.

    So after that show, I went up to the guy as he wandered through the crowd and said to him through my dentures, “Good show, but Mony Mony isn’t by Billy Idol, dammit!”

    And I’ve run into the guy a few times since, like today after their gig, and he always breaks into a big grin and points to me and says, “I know you!” (It’s the dentures, they give me away).

    Today, they sing “Twist and Shout”, “La Bamba” and “Walk of Life”, among others. So when I run into him later, and he says “I know you!”, I say, “Hey, I enjoyed it, but too bad you didn’t sing Mony Mony! I was waiting for it. But I liked that Billy Joel tune.”

    That one was “You May Be Right.” I jumped and clapped so much my arthritis started acting up.

    Sunday, February 8, 2009
    Eat bananas together

    In the “Postcards to Pakistan” booth (courtesy Fight Back), they ask if you would like to write a, you got it, postcard to Pakistan. Many people have written short messages on small cards, one or two on inland letters, and they are up on the walls of the booth. I’m told they will be delivered to the Pakistan High Commission after the Festival.

    To my surprise, the great majority of the messages are unsigned, apart from several who style themselves “an Indian”. It reminds me just tangentially about anonymous comments on blogs. Just tangentially. The ones that are signed seem to be from kids, such as “Anoushka Bhatt, age 9.”

    Here’s a random selection of these postcard messages that will make their way to Pakistan:

  • Please, we want peace!
  • Mera Bharat Mahan. Hindustan Zindabad, Pakistan Murdabad. [In Devnagari].
  • It’s enough now. Don’t try our patients.
  • Pakistan: Thanks for bringing out the best in us.
  • To all the Bawas of Pakistan. Please Come Home!!! Bawas of India.
  • P for Pakistan, P for politicians, please stop promoting terrorism or P for people of India will kill you. INDIAN.
  • Dear friends, I have visited your country twice. The beauty of Lahore overwhelmed me but the hospitality and the love of people changed me forever. I can never never hate Pakistan. One terrorist is not a whole country.
  • Dear Terrorist — kill or don’t kill but we will KILL you. By Sushil 9 year old.
  • Dear Pakistanis, you’re all monkeys just like us. And everyone else in the world. So shed your differences and lets eat bananas together. Ali.
  • War is not about WINING it’s about survival, we @ India believe in making people survive.
  • There also happens to be a message there scrawled by your diligent correspondent. Honk if you see it.

    Sunday, February 8, 2009
    Misses you

    At the parking lot-turned-art installation space, opposite the Jehangir Art Gallery, I find myself gazing at a sign titled, simply, “REASON”. The name given to this particular installation. Seeing that I’m a fan of reason and also seeing that it is hot like you wouldn’t believe this Sunday afternoon and this installation is housed in a small shady booth — seeing those things, I step in.

    There’s a glass display case that I gaze at while cooling down. Three shelves and various artifacts on them. Such as? you want to know.

    There’s a stopwatch that’s stopped at 625pm. It sits inside a cracked glass shaped like a ball. There’s a large old rusting lock. Its keys, like long slender brown fingers, are attached to a keyring nearby. All around these are small white paper birds.

    On the top shelf are several notes on folded sheets of paper in multiple colours. Scribbled on the paper is this legend: “MISS U …”, though at least one emphasized the message thus: “MISS U U …”

    There are five (5) beakers with yellow fluid and dead flowers stuffed inside. They are surrounded by paper butterflies.

    At the bottom is a horizontal hourglass lying on a page torn from a diary, and scribbled on that page is “See for the nature… Live to smile … Catch a hope … To survive!!!”

    The booth is empty when I step in, but as I stand there taking in the birds and the “MISS U U”, floods of kids start, well, flooding in, asking me “What is this?” I get the strangest feeling I have become part of the installation.

    Outside, the sign titled “REASON” has these words among others: “I wants to provide an eye-onpener to the viewer … where people are getting concertized … I want us to stop and think of this never ending rat race.”

    All in all, a fine way to step into the Kala Ghoda Festival, edition 2009. Not least because I can’t get rats and their races out of my head for the rest of the day. But I really want to know who this Miss U is.

    Wednesday, February 13, 2008
    Oniomania OK Please

    Ten days ago, I stood in the line for tickets at Bandra station and noticed that the guy in front of me had these lines printed calligraphy-style on his T-shirt:

    Stone Dead Forever
    Auttgart Sineers
    Galaxy Rainers
    Bengrance — Witteilingen.
    Being Outstanding in a Complex Society Revolution

    I know, I know. You feel envious that you weren’t there to read these words for yourself. Believe me, I felt privileged.

    But on Sunday (Feb 10) at the Kala Ghoda Festival, I noticed this on a T-shirt that passed by:

    Being Outstanding in a Complex Society

    Now that has to rank as a seriously improbable coincidence. In years of being a T-shirt slogan watcher, I’ve never seen the same wacky slogan twice. Here it’s happened within ten days. Naturally, I wonder if this is some popular quote, sort of like “Don’t tase me, bro”.

    Is it?

    (Click here to read the whole post)

    Sunday, February 10, 2008
    Languor at the Fest

    As someone else on this page remarked earlier, mornings at the Kala Ghoda festival are special. Reminds me of times I’ve gone flamingo-watching in Sewri on weekend mornings. There and here, there’s a slow move to wakefulness afoot, and it lends an air of lazy stretchy languor to everything.

    So on Saturday morning (Feb 8).

    I stumble across a man eating breakfast behind one of the stalls.

    Two men sit on the stairs chatting in whispers even though they don’t need to but maybe they feel they must. When I first see them, I stop short — because from that angle, with the vast branches of a tree spreading above them, they are the only two humans in my field of view. And there hasn’t been a previous moment at the Festival when I could have made such a statement.

    (Click here to read the whole post)

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