Retrieved via the Wayback Machine. Originally posted by Akshay Mahajan

As I exited the cab I saw a small crowd assembled around what appeared to be large bronze plaque. They were congregating around a youngish looking woman in a salwar kameez, who was in the middle of a rather expressive monologue. The small motley bunch where buzzing with excitement, their eyes twinkling as they processed the information shared with them. I was late and all I could hear straining my ears was Times Archives and V.T.

Next the crowd was herded into the Times of India building and pushed into an elevator. It is here that I was re-acquainted with my co-bloggers Sidin and Yazad. We shared some “where were you” looks [mostly directed at me], and we continued on.

[Here’s a map :20 - Capital Cinema, 21 - Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, 22 - BMC Building, 23 - The Times of India Building ]

Stop 1: The Times of India Archive

Come to think about it there is not much ‘heritage’ in a public archive except the archive itself. I was expecting to see the hidden corners of the Grade 1 heritage structure that is the TOI Building and the history and stories one would associate with them .In that sense I was disappointed but the Archives were interesting all the same.

The Archive holds every Times of India newspaper the Bennett, Coleman & Co have ever published, since Saturday, November 3, 1838 . It was then called “The Bombay Times and Journal of Commerce“. Now you know where the popular (Page 3) supplement of the Times inherited its name!!

All the editions have been recorded on microfilm and are available to the public for a fee of Rs.50 an hour.

Our guide at the archive was friendly and garrulous - how I like my them and he attended all the questions asked to him well. If you are keen on additional information [on the Times of India] have look at the Wikipedia article in this [link]

Stop 2 : Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Formerly: The Victoria Terminus

As we were ushered through the gates into the quadrangle in front of this building, it was hard not be dwarfed by the overall splendour of the building. The building stands there symmetrical, overpowering, inhumanly huge, ornate - a classical example of “Victorian Gothic Revival architecture” the guide tells me. It is a symbol of Mumbai and the second most photographed building in India after the Taj Mahal.
But sadly the best part of this building is closed to the public. This is the first time I am inside the building (though not for want of trying). Each time I have approached its grand wrought iron gates to take a better look I have been quickly shooed away by over-zealous guards. It is sad that a heritage so rich is “out of bounds” to the general public.
The crowning point of the entire of walk and a memorable moment all around was when we were taken to the main atrium of the building under the glorious octahedral dome. I know this is starting to sound a little clichéd but it was truly a sight to behold. A cantilever staircase circled upwards, intricately carved basalt lined the walls and for the centrepiece was the dome with stained glass surrounding it. As sunlight filtered down onto our faces the only thing all of us could do was to look up open mouthed in complete awe.(Sorry no photography was allowed,so just go for the next VT walk)

Kohlis, Marathas, Sultanates, Portuguese, British - Seven Islands, endless rulers and a lot of history. I am going to look out for this history in the several heritage walks organised by the Kala Ghoda Festival. If you are interested as I am don’t miss the other walks - the details of the program are provided here.

Today’s walk is the Kala Ghoda Walk which starts around 4:30p.m.

Comments

Comment by Samudrika on February 6, 2006 @ 9:52 pm

Random Trivia: The Victorian Gothic Revival Architecture also called the Neo-Gothic style became popular because as more people moved to live in cities, they yearned for the countryside with its flora and fauna. Hence the huge amount of flowers/leaves/animals that are depicted on these structures.

I enjoy reading about the history of Mumbai too. So I liked reading the posts about the heritage walks.

Comment by akshay on February 7, 2006 @ 2:04 pm

Samudrika thanks for the trivia. I always thought that Neo-Gothic has a very dark aspect to them - even they do have a natural element to them they’re uneven symmetry makes them stand out.